NOVEL THINKING

Before you cut the front and back, cut one notch into a scrap piece, just as you cut the first notch into the side piece earlier. When cutting, the arrow will always point to your right. Push the edges together and make the rest of the cuts.

It works well and is the best choice fro thinner material. I do love the projects on the website and have gotten many damn good ideas from it. The backer greatly reduces the chance of tearout on your workpieces.

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You can't make a box joint if you don't have a box-joint jig. Clamp the box together as shown below.

Set the Spacer Block aside for use with the second set of sides. I inserted a 1/4" straight bit in to the router table … Nice pictures though. This is where the spacer block comes in. Member of The MakerBarn. This is what it should look like.

Be sure to keep the arrow pointed to your right. Step 3: Perform Test Cuts. Unclamp the board and flip it so that the face that was pointed towards the blade is now against the backer and your first cut is slide into the slot. Is there a need to identify (and mark) the outside face and respective corners as part of the process? I don't mean any Dancing With the Stars sort of thing. Share it with us! The simplest one, which I partially replicated, using a screw, is on the darbin orwar channel on youtube. Place your miter gauge in the slot of your table saw and select a scrap piece of wood for a backer. Did you make this project? It seems that it originated with the mandate the all spindles and arbors stop within a specific time.

To start the cuts for the joint, place your first board vertically against the backer and the edge flush to the stop and clamp it in place (second photograph). Two pieces of double sided tape are used to hold the backer to the jig. Holding the backer against the miter gauge make one cut with your blade as shown in the photos above. To connect the box together I went with box joints. Now your finger joint is complete and can be assembled. Box joints are an easy yet effective joinery method! (You may need to position a clamp diagonally to square the box.) Reply

Now that your jig is set up, set the height of your blade to just higher than the thickness of the wood that you will be cutting. How to do this when you may be making 3/8 or 1/4 kerfs? One pair of sides butts directly against the index block of the jig for the first cut. So grab one set either front and back, or left and right, and set the other set out of harm's way. I will be using a dado stack to cut 1/4" wide fingers but you can cut whatever width fingers that is right for your project and if do not own a dado stack you can use your regular 1/8" blade to make 1/8" fingers. After making this cut remove the first board and slide the second one flush against the stop (photograph four). Start the cut with the piece firmly against the index block, with the arrow pointing to the index block side. Box joints are an easy way to make strong attractive joints quickly and easily. Setup the Dado blade to match the size of the box joint jig you plan to use.

Note that we used scrap pieces on each side of the corners to evenly distribute the clamping pressure along the joint. With this type of jig, the fingers and the slots must be identical widths. For all of the following cuts, hold the top edge of the workpiece toward the jig pin for the first cut. It's possible that the backer may need some slight adjustments to insure that the joint is the proper fit. When installing crown molding, I find it difficult to measure accurately between the corners of a... read more. 1 year ago. Cut the other side piece in the same fashion.

Mark the front, back, and side pieces of your box. Here's a crafty dude with no dado as well: https://www.instructables.com/id/My-Super-Simple-Single-Blade-Box-Finger-Joint-Jig/Problem solved! To add to my previous question, how to calculate the height of the piece so the fingers dont look awkward? The fear was that a heavy dado stack would come loose if the arbor stopped too quickly. I suppose if you were engineering savvy you could make an extension but for real safety, I would ensure it is supported at both ends to give better balance, I would hate to think of two blades whizzing around your workshop. The exact placement of this cut on the backer is not overly critical but insure that the hight of the cut is greater than the width of the boards that you will be cutting the finger joints on. For each box you make, you cut the sides consecutively, and the front and back consecutively. Place the just-cut notch over the jib pin and repeat to cut fingers along the full width of the workpiece. Do not flip this board once you reach the end and make the last cut even if it cuts less than the blades width. Once you've cut the two wooden pieces for the jig, install the … 1 year ago. Using CA glue and an accelerator (only makes the glue dry faster), glue the stop in place with it flush to the bottom and back side of the backer. In my own shop I usually cut boxjoints with the Freud box joint set, which is two blades that are swapped for 1/4 and 3/8" joints. Make the cut, then advance the piece to the next position, cut, and so on until the end is complete. Yes sir, it would absolutely make your life easier when it comes time to assemble. There will be some blowout on the backside so marking your outside and inside faces can help you to make sure that the blowout is inside the box where you will not be able to see it. Use some sandpaper to sand the bottom a little to insure that it is flush and smooth with the bottom. Table saw arbors are usually very simple devices.

It is also important that the width of all sides is identical. In practice, the fingers are made a tiny bit less than 3/8" to allow for glue and easy assembly. About: Youtube Channel: Penalty Box Woodshop - Instagram: @penaltyboxwoodshop - Website: www.penaltyboxwoodshop.com - Step by step woodworking and DIY projects. About: Retired Electronic Design Engineer. To join your box pieces, apply glue to all of the mating surfaces with a small brush. Once you have the correct fit, cut two stops the exact same size.

(that is, at the end it has a nice space, not cutting a half finger).

Cut the sides of the box 1/32 to 1/16" longer than necessary. Using the jig, cut a slot high enough to clear the height of the index block on the jig, similar to the Backer. After the first cut, remove the spacer block and use the index block to setup each cut. Many do have a square thread for the blade mount, which is tricky to machine. Clamp the box together as shown below. If you leave them proud they can easily but flush cut and sanded to flush for a great fit every time. Mark the material to show which edge will be the reference edge on each piece. Prepare the Jig. You can make finger joints using a regular blade too. Got it. We cannot get them here as the H&S (as usual) would not give it a CE/Kitemark unless it had the short shaft which is too short for a dado blade stack. A real pain the the German's arse as well as the RAF. For UK users, I imported set of stacked dado heads and appropriate arbour from US and re-engineered my "Cheap" UK table saw, which was out of warranty anyway. Did you make this project? With your hands and fingers safely away from the blade, make the first cut.

I have a jig I made for cutting box joints with a normal combination blade.

It doesn't matter which pair you do first, so we'll start with the sides. A 3/8" wide notch was cut (sorry for the blurry photo) to clear the index block on the jig. So the newer table saws are manufactured with purposely short arbors. For additional information on setting up Dado blades, see the Instructable "Setting-up a Stacked Dado Blade". Do one end, flip the piece over and do the other end.

Tap the joints together with a rubber mallet if necessary. I would love to make on of your finger joint jigs, BUT, we unlucky souls in the U.K. are not able to get hold of dado stacks. Set the blade just slightly above the thickness of your workpieces. Also, insure that when the stop is in place that it is flush at the bottom of the backer. You just need a mechanism or something to precisely control advance in relation to your blade's thickness. Tap the joints together with a rubber mallet if necessary. I checked it out. The notches cut in the second set of sides must be precisely offset from the first set. As hobbyists there is always an element of risk in all that we do. This is mandatory EU occupational safety regulation. How to Make a Box Joint Box Step 1: Do a Jig. We will be using a 3/8" box joint for this project. If the width of the piece is a multiple of the width of cut, all fingers will be even.

Since you set your blade to cut higher than the depth of the boards the fingers will be proud of the surface. For some reason they are not permitted. The easiest way to do this is to make a spacer block. 1 year ago. Just curious. For this box, I wanted 1/4" fingers. Wider boxes may require additional clamps. Participated in the Makerspace Contest 2017. To begin, install your blade of choice into your table saw. The Joint. Before you cut the actual box joints, keep in mind that the width of your box sides must be an increment of the finger width. For more details you can watch the full build video here: If you want to see more woodworking and DIY videos then please Subscribe to my channel. If the width of the piece in an evem multiple, the fingers will apear centered. Thanks for the lesson! Cut the back piece just as you cut the front. Install the Stacked Dado Blade Set. Scrollsaw, Carving, and Decorative Projects. Reply

That's very strange.

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